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Loch Bracadale forms a giant inlet on the west coast of the Island. Peninsulas such as Ullinish, and Harlosh, project into the loch giving the impression of uneven teeth. This gently undulating, land is fertile pasture and for centuries, Bracadale was one of the Island's centres for growing flax. When visiting the Island in 1772, the famous traveller, Thomas Pennant, was greatly impressed by the size and ease of navigation offered by this giant natural harbour. He thought it would make and excellent site for a town. Perhaps due to the clearances which decimated the local population, or other complex reasons, Bracadale never developed beyond a crofting area. Even so, the SS Dunara Castle, a passenger steamer which served the Hebrides for more than 70 years, regularly called at Struan, Carbost and Colbost.
Bracadale was traditionally in the hands of the MacLeods, and hereabouts was automatically given to bearers of the famous Fairy Flag. To this day, the flag can be seen framed behind glass, in Dunvegan Castle. The flag, reputed to have been given to the clan chief by a fairy princess, is said to have the power to protect the clan from adversity if unfurled. The downside for this service was, that in return the bearer would be mysteriously spirited away … never to appear on Earth again. Perhaps because of this, the land in question is thought to have remained largely unclaimed.
As you approach Portree from the south, you occasionally glimpse one of the Island's most evocative sights … the Old Man of Storr. Perched precariously on the distant skyline, if the Old Man could speak he'd surely be calling you on to visit Trotternish. This peninsula is the one most closely associated with the island's capital. The main roads out of Portree loop neatly around Trotternish's spinal ridge, meeting at the northern tip, Rubha Hunish. Here a walk to the point delivers magnificent views of the entire northern Minch.
You'll find scenery which is rugged, but rarely forbidding. Just as nowhere is far from the sea, almost everywhere on Trotternish is approachable by road. Hill walking, and scrambling, are rewarding without being extreme. With care, almost anyone can experience the fantastic rock formations of the Quiraing and the highest point, Beinn Edra. Yet you can still be back down for lunch, or in time for an afternoon on the shoreline.
Trotternish is home to busy crofting communities. Gaelic is still spoken here daily, and hay is sometimes still hand cut and carried on the back. The area was an important centre for cattle farming and was for centuries famous as the granary. It is also a place of contrasts. It's possible to rediscover the house where Flora MacDonald died or walk on the roof of a dwelling 8,500 years old. You can stay in a hotel favoured by celebrities, or self-cater in a traditional thatched croft house.
Seek out the experience and you'll find that Trotternish is full of surprises. Alluvial gold, fresh water pearls and musical sands have all been found here. Diatomite and lignite have been mined here. And it's no idle claim that the experience can be a moving one … for here you'll also find Europe's largest land slip imperceptibly in motion. The Cuillins (or Coolins) are, geologically speaking, comparative stumps.